new look patterns



Vintage Inspired Daywear

Suitable Separates

Summer Fun

I've lost quite a bit of weight this year (due to lifestyle changes - I'll write more about this soon) and gone down about 4 dress sizes. The result is that I'm now desperately in need of a new wardrobe. I'm making do with a few off the rack items but I want to celebrate by doing some selfish sewing. Most of the patterns in my stash are now way too big. Apart from my few tried n true patterns which I'll make smaller, all my other patterns are going out. So with this in mind, I popped into Spotlight Sylvia Park yesterday and kicked off my new selfish sewing with a selection of New Look patterns. I chose 6 patterns for less than $30. I'm starting off with making the 6910 dresses views A and B. I'm undecided about making the jacket yet. I'll see how the dresses look first.

the 'betty' dress beginning

I've finally seen all the 'Mad Men' episodes and I'm feeling inspired about making a 'Betty Draper' styled dress (fitted top and full skirt) for a function in early April. Then I spy this Cynthia Rowley pattern on the Simplicity patterns website. This is exactly what I want. The cut of the bodice is ideal (I'll be making dress B, adding 1.5 inches to the length and doing a FBA). I really like the look of the box pleated skirt. It will be more flattering on me than the typical hugely gathered drindl skirt. As this pattern won't be released in New Zealand for at least another month, I've had to buy it from overseas, so now the waiting time starts. In the meantime, I'll be searching for just the right fabric. There's a few possibilities in the fabric stash.

caftan

Canvas Weekend Herald 23 October 2010

                                Burda 07/2010                                          Burda 06/2010

McCalls 6037

the first item in my 'me, me, ME!' sewing plan is a caftan. I was inspired by the fashion page in the weekend newspaper liftout and the June & July 2010 Burda magazines. My caftan must-haves are a deep v neckline (not plunging), airy sleeves and a flamboyant chiffon print.

McCalls 6037 will be a good basic pattern to go with. It has the desired neckline and would look great in a bold print. I'm undecided about the sleeves. I'd love to have full fluttery sleeves and I'm not convinced that the pattern sleeves will meet that ideal. I've decided to stick with this pattern for now.

In case you're wondering where such a garment could be worn? at the beach and around the pool (over a swimsuit) of course!

carrot pants

pressured by the urgency of making Miss 13 clothes that fit. I'm having another try at making bwof pants even though my first pair were a dismal failure - yep, a total wadder!

Miss 13 is tall (she's still growing) and has a short torso and long legs, so ready-to-wear pants are often too short. If she goes for the length then most rtw pants sit way too high above her waist. After yet another unsuccessful shopping trip, ending with both of us feeling cross (plus my paitence being worn thin!), I've agreed to sew for her.

inspired by MC Hammer's pants (any one remember those?), she's chosen bwof 08-2009-123 'futurism' pants. This pattern states "Carrot trousers/pants are back – in a more modern version. Still ankle-length and cut wide at the hips, ours sport a wide yoke and inverted box pleats. This style was designed exclusively for tall sizes!" My first impression is that the pants have a really nice streamlined style. I like the fact that the pleats come off the waist yoke rather than directly from the waist. She's chosen a black poly-wool crepe and wants to wear them this Friday. So I'll be pulling a late nighter to get them done.
There's nothing quite like a bit of 'pressure sewing' to get back into the swing of things...

burda 8179 overalls

just finished view B, short overalls for Miss 12 to wear on a school trip to the Waiwera heated pools tomorrow. The fabric is a self striped mid weight denim/lycra mix.  Generally speaking I prefer the big 4 when it comes to patterns. Miss 12 likes burda mostly because the 'teen' patterns are funky, edgey and fun, so I agreed to make them. Despite the fun style, this was not a fun sew.

I found that this pattern had some quirky design features that completely killed the fun factor for me ie. the front and back 'short' pieces didn't match up (the front was larger than the back), the tabs for the buttons are completely separate pattern pieces that need to be taped to the main shorts pieces before cutting (very easy to miss this!), the back and front bibs should be lined to give the bib weight (otherwise it's too floppy), the button size suggested by the pattern are too big (given the size of the button plackets).

Despite all that, the end result is a very cute pair of overalls, just perfect for summer!

burda 8179 overalls

just finished view B, short overalls for Miss 12 to wear on a school trip to the Waiwera heated pools tomorrow. The fabric is a self striped mid weight denim/lycra mix.  Generally speaking I prefer the big 4 when it comes to patterns. Miss 12 likes burda mostly because the 'teen' patterns are funky, edgey and fun, so I agreed to make them. Despite the fun style, this was not a fun sew.

I found that this pattern had some quirky design features that completely killed the fun factor for me ie. the front and back 'short' pieces didn't match up (the front was larger than the back), the tabs for the buttons are completely separate pattern pieces that need to be taped to the main shorts pieces before cutting (very easy to miss this!), the back and front bibs should be lined to give the bib weight (otherwise it's too floppy), the button size suggested by the pattern are too big (given the size of the button plackets).

Despite all that, the end result is a very cute pair of overalls, just perfect for summer!

out of print patterns

sometimes when the new season's pattern books are released, patterns that I've had my eye on for a while are 'discontinued.' On occassion I've gone on a pattern finding expedition, using ebay, etsy and the pattern companies websites. At times it's been a frustrating and costly process.  

lately I've discovered that a couple of my local sewing shops are now selling oop patterns for $5 each, which is something totally new.  Yesterday I managed to find 9 patterns that I'd been interested in. Will I ever get to sew them all? probably not straight away but at least I'll know that they're on hand if I need them.

pyjama pants

Miss 12 has grown over the winter and now her pyjama pants are far too short. She likes her pants to be long and slouchy. I've joined the Pajama sew- along over at http://www.sewmamasew.com/ for motivation and inspiration. My last pants adventure for Miss 12 was the burda wof skinny pants that I blogged about last month. They weren't a success. The front of the pants looked great if she stood still however when she moved around the front tended to puff up at the bottom of the pleats in the crotch area. The pleats are long and deep adding an unwanted fullness. Sorry no photos. I couldn't convince Miss 12 to model the pants for posterity's sake.

moving on to the pyjama pants, here's the pattern that I've chosen to use. Yes it's another easy peasy pattern that's been lurking in the pattern box for a while. There's plenty of knit fabric in the fabric stash, oops, I mean collection, to make her up a couple of pairs.

new mccalls palmer/pletsch patterns

the new McCalls winter/holiday collection 2009 email was opened this morning with great anticipation. I wasn't disappointed. Among the 49 new pattern designs is one 'possible' and one 'must have' palmer/pletsch pattern that will eventually join my sewing queue. First up is this 'possible' pattern for 'the perfect wardrobe.' I'm intrigued by the jacket although it's too boxy looking to be flattering on me. However, I love the inverted pleat in the back and the a-line trapeze shape. 

then there's the 'must have' pattern for 'the perfect knit dress.' The main picture featuring the very busy red/black/white print almost put me off and I would have scrolled right on by if I hadn't read the description. I'm on a mission to find the perfect knit dress pattern for me and this could quite possibly be it?

sporty pants bwof 10/2008

Miss 12's sewing request is for a pair of sporty pants made from bwof 10/2008. The blurb describes the pants as having 'long darts, topstitched waist tucks and narrow legs.' A careful study of the photo suggests that I may have a potential problem with fitting in the front crotch area. So this afternoon will be spent tracing the pattern and then working on adjustments later.

To make things more challenging she's asked that these pants are ready for mufti day next week on Wednesday. So I better get cracking!

butterick 5068

the next wardrobe item on my sewing list is a pair of long gaucho pants. I'll be using Butterick See & Sew 5068, which is still available here in NZ although it's OOP (out of print) in the US. I'm after a fast sew project which is exactly what a See & Sew pattern promises to be. It's 3 pattern pieces: front, back, waistband and no pockets. I'm a lover of simple things! but first I'll have to work on getting my long list of adjustments right before sewing a stitch.


I've chosen this poly-viscose linen look fabric which I got at a Spotlight sale for $4 a metre. It's a dark chocolate colour and will look good with my jacket. Thanks to some great advice from Mary Nanna , I took a trip across town this morning to Smart Dress Fabrics and stocked up on interfacing. It's a very nice store with friendly, knowledgable staff. Great service too!

simplicity 2728 so far

the Simplicity 2728 jacket is slowly coming together. As my sewing time is limited, I've had to make a list of the construction tasks and spread them out over a 7 day period and then tick off as I go. So far the pattern has been cut, adjustments made, fabric cut, interfacing attached. Tonight it's cutting the bias strips for the hong kong seams (from the peachy orange polyester) and then the start of the jacket body construction (without the sleeves.) The sleeves and collar are for tomorrow.

it's a slow process that most sewers wouldn't even consider but it works for me. The days of pulling all nighters to finish sewing a garment or sewing instead of doing the household chores don't work for me now. I hope to show the finished garment next Monday and then get started on the next item for the wardrobe.

burda wof magazine

I've been resisting the lure of the burda wof magazine for a very long time, completely determined not to subscribe. After all, I have loads of patterns, many which haven't even been used, so why would I want magazines full of patterns? then I bought this withdrawn copy of burda for 50 cents at the library book sale.



flicking through it I found this cute cardi tie top which would be a great addition to my wardrobe capsule. A cardigan is my alternative to wearing a jacket. The suggested fabric is a 2 way stretch jersey knit but I think it would look good made up in a drapey merino wool, making it perfect for both warm and cold weather. Another addition to the ever growing sewing list!



there's also this casual jacket which I think would be a possible as the detailing around the collar and front edges gives it a cardi sort of feel. Although I've hit a snag here as the pattern sheet for the jacket is missing.

Oh and yes, I've asked the local magazine store to put a Burda wof aside for me each month lol!

gaucho pants

I haven't found the right fabric for my dresses yet. It's school holidays for the next 2 weeks and I've no intention of fabric shopping with children in tow. So I've put the dresses on hold and moved down the list to the gaucho pants.

These aren't the decades old culottes that were around in the late 70s. The gaucho pant has a more streamlined, classic look and will be perfect for casual wear. I'm using McCalls 5251 and I'm thinking of making a combination of views A and C in a good weight black knit, without the fold over waistband of view A or the cuffs of view C.

simplicity retro 3559

it's nice to be back blogging again after a full on week of caring for sick children with colds. The arrival of the swine flu has meant that children showing any cold/flu like symptoms have to stay home from school for a week. As a result not a stitch of sewing or crafting has been done.

In an effort to get motivated and focussed, I've made a 'to do' sewing list of the clothes I want to sew myself this year. You'll see the list in the left hand margin of my blog. First up is a dress made from Simplicity 3559. I'm a fan of the upright darts and the shaping of this dress will be flattering with the slightly fitted top and flaring skirt. I've read the reviews on patternreview and it all looks good. As for choice of fabric, I'm hoping to find a teal wool crepe or something similar.

retro coat pattern

popped into the Sallies store on the way home yesterday and found this pattern. It's a Butterick reprint of a 1952 pattern, just like new for 50 cents. That's a bargain!

As for the purple wool coat, on closer inspection I realised that there were quite a few small moth holes on both shoulders of the coat and the underside of the collar. Didn't notice them earlier in my excitement to actually find a large fitting coat.
So I've decided that this project has been binned.

ugly fabric dress

at last a decision! the 'ugly fabric' demands to be made into a 1950s inspired dress, with a fitted bodice and very full skirt. The fabric has kept it's crispness even though it's been washed. That will probably save me having to make a crinoline petticoat to go underneath. I'm drafting the pattern from Enid Gilchrist's 'Women and Teenagers' pattern book. Miss 12 has kindly agreed to be the new owner of the dress. Lucky her!

inside the cape

it's been almost a month since I started my cape project. It started well. The fabric was chosen (medium weight black wool), the lining decided (blood red satin), the fabric cut and then the sewing started. Part way into my cape journey, I had a change of mind about the lining. The red lining had me thinking of those retro pictures of matadors and raging bulls and so the sewing stopped and the 'lining' dilemma began.

The cape project had been at a standstill for almost 3 weeks. Then last night, I had the proverbial 'lightbulb' moment when I remembered some bold floral satin hiding at the very back of the stash. Nice to think of flowers peeking out from the inside of the cape. With the lining dilemma now resolved, I can get back to cape sewing once again...

new look cape patterns

Saturday morning was spent drafting my cape pattern from Enid's book. I'd hoped to start sewing then but got sidetracked helping Miss 12 make Scotty the Scotch terrier, her new soccer team mascot. (I'll post a pic & intro for Scotty as soon as I can find the cable to download his photos from my mobile.)

Anyway, Miss 12 and I had to pop into Spotlight to buy some felt to make Scotty's eyes. Guess what I spied in the New Look pattern book? 2 great cape patterns.

Miss 12 really loves the plaid cape with the matching hat and has asked me to make it for her.

mary quant inspiration

Miss 12 has a school project to work on during the upcoming holidays. She has to choose a 'well known person' and then put together a presentation based on their life and achievements.

Inspired by this retro pattern in my stash, she's chosen Mary Quant. As she has to dress up like Mary Quant, she's convinced me to make up this pattern for her. Miss 12 is a Junior size 8/10, so I'll definitely have to do a number of pattern alterations to make it fit. Plus trim a cheap black wig into a geometric bob & find some 1960s styled shoes.

Our flights & accommodation to Wellington are booked, so that we can visit the Monet exhibition. We'll be travelling in about a fortnights time. Can't wait!