Tuesday, March 3, 2009

make it fit (a+o pants update 2)

when I was sewing for myself years ago, I was working in an office. To stand out in a sea of dark suits, I made my own tailored suits. At the time, I had the most beautiful fabric stash, thanks to Barker & Pollock Queen Street where I worked part time when I was studying. I had a lovely size 12 body with a perky bust and no fitting issues. Everything I made for myself fitted me beautifully. 20 years on things have changed alot. Time, 3 pregnancies and extended breastfeeding have contributed to my change in figure. Now I have a fuller and rounder tummy, hips, thighs and a butt...


For the a+o pants I referred to this book in my sewing books collection by Pati Palmer. Years ago, I learnt to pattern draft & adjust using the flat pattern work method. This usually gets me close enough and then I start to pin and fit from there. The measuring and number work can be confusing & bothersome and the results aren't always precise. That's the way I've always done it. The plesch/palmer method is worth learning, the fit is great and as for getting a good fit in the crotch area, it's the best I've seen. So with my pattern adjustments complete, I'm cutting my test pants this weekend. I've also set aside some fabric to practice my back welt pockets.


For general fitting issues, Sandra Betzina's 'Fast Fit' is a good reference book. She deals with a range of body shape fitting issues and solutions using a flat pattern adjustment method. I've found this book to be a handy reference when sewing for others.

The a+o pants are still very much a work in progress. I'll post another update soon.

3 comments:

Mary Nanna said...

I've never seen that Sandra Betzina book, looks like a good general reference.

I do have the Pati Palmer one, and it is wonderful, still, you have got to wonder where taste and style fit into the picture.. since they make beautifully fitting very unattractive pants.


Trinny and Susannah would have lots to say, none of it kind, since they have a real thing about pleated tapered pants and that's practically every second pair in the book.

Well done you for doing all the fit work so far. Can't wait to see them! All 59 steps. That should keep you out of trouble for a while ..

Pinkflowerbuttons said...

Whoo hoo they look fun. not my age group, but if they fit and are comfy it looks great.

Normatika said...

You've definitely got to look beyond the pics... personally I think tapered pants = frumpy & aging... I'm 44 and they are definitely not my age group either. Still Pati's book will certainly help the home sewer achieve a great fitting trouser.